Tag Archives: Antigua

11 Jan 2017:
St. John’s, Antigua:
Modern Piracy in a Place of Old Times

By Corey Sandler, Destination Consultant Silversea Cruises

Antigua is a mix of all things Caribbean, with a splash of celebrity and a tinge of scandal. Slavery, sugar, young Lord Nelson, superstars in remote palaces, and an American import who played a version of Bernie Madoff’s game on some very undeserving islanders and is now a long-term guest of the U.S. federal prison system.

It is the more substantial of a two-island nation; it is the capital of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda.

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Antigua means old or ancient in Spanish, and that was the name bestowed upon the island by Christopher Columbus in 1493. He had in mind an icon in Seville Cathedral: Santa Maria de la Antigua (Saint Mary the Ancient.)

Antigua has some of the most interesting terrain amongst Caribbean islands: hills and valleys and deep bays. It is the largest of the Leeward Islands, about 108 square miles or 281 square kilometers.

Although it has its share of tourism income, it is also unusual in its development of other industries including Internet gambling services, offshore banking, and telemarketing centers. It also has two medical schools that aim at least in part to attract American and other foreign students.

Antigua, located on the major sailing route from Europe to the West Indies, was considered Britain’s “Gateway to the Caribbean.” And it was for that reason in the late 18th century the Admiralty decided to beef up its resources on the island.

Antigua English Harbor2

Young Horatio Nelson, later to become Britain’s most celebrated naval hero, was sent in 1784 to oversee the dockyards at English Harbour and enforce The Navigation Acts which dealt with commercial shipping.

The dockyard was originally called “His Majesty’s Antigua Naval Yard.” Boats coming in for repairs sailed into the boat house, and their sails were hoisted up to the loft through a trapdoor.

Antigua English Harbor1

The dockyard was abandoned by the British Navy in 1889. A first, unsuccessful effort to restore the yards began in 1932; the work resumed in 1951 and continues.

And for tourism purposes the place was renamed as Nelson’s Dockyard.

As we sailed away, Antigua graced us with a spectacular sunset of the sort I have rarely seen.

Text and images copyright 2017 by Corey Sandler. All rights reserved. If you would like to purchase a high-resolution image, please contact me.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE AN AUTOGRAPHED COPY OF ONE OF MY BOOKS, PLEASE CONTACT ME.

SEE THE “How to Order a Photo or Autographed Book” TAB ON THIS PAGE FOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Now available, the revised Second Edition of “Henry Hudson Dreams and Obsession” by Corey Sandler, for the Amazon Kindle. You can read the book on a Kindle device, or in a Kindle App on your computer, laptop, tablet, or smartphone.

Hudson Book Cover

If you would like to purchase an autographed copy, please see the tab on this page, “HOW TO ORDER A PHOTO OR AUTOGRAPHED BOOK”

Here’s where to order an electronic copy for immediate delivery:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IA9QTBM

17 February 2016
St. John’s, Antigua

By Corey Sandler, Destination Consultant Silversea Cruises

Antigua, located on the major sailing route from Europe to the West Indies, was considered Britain’s “Gateway to the Caribbean.”

And it was for that reason in the late 18th century the Admiralty decided to beef up its resources on the island.

Young Horatio Nelson, later to become Britain’s most celebrated naval hero, was sent in 1784 to oversee the dockyards at English Harbour and enforce The Navigation Acts which dealt with commercial shipping.

Nelson did not much like Antigua, calling it a “vile place” and a “dreadful hole.” He spent most of his time in the cramped quarters of his ship, H.M.S. Boreas, during his stay from 1784 to 1787.

Serving under Nelson at the time was Prince William Henry, later to be King William IV of England; he had much nicer accommodations on shore, Clarence House.

Antigua English Harbor2

We were here most recently on February 10, and I invite you read that blog for more details of the sugar mill history of Antigua.

The dockyard was originally called “His Majesty’s Antigua Naval Yard.” Boats coming in for repairs sailed into the boat house, and their sails were hoisted up to the loft through a trapdoor.

The old Boat House and Sail Loft was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1843 and then by a hurricane in 1871. All that remains are the massive boat house pillars.

The Naval Officers House was put up in 1855. It has a small set of exhibits including some artifacts of the shipyard and some of the vessels and men who visited.

Antigua English Harbor1

Text and images copyright 2016 by Corey Sandler. All rights reserved. If you would like to purchase a high-resolution image, please contact me.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE AN AUTOGRAPHED COPY OF ONE OF MY BOOKS, PLEASE CONTACT ME.

SEE THE “How to Order a Photo or Autographed Book” TAB ON THIS PAGE FOR INSTRUCTIONS

10 February 2016
Saint John’s, Antigua

By Corey Sandler, Destination Consultant Silversea Cruises

Antigua is a mix of all things Caribbean, with a splash of celebrity and a tinge of scandal.

Slavery, sugar, young Lord Nelson, superstars in remote palaces, and an American import who played a version of Bernie Madoff’s game on some very undeserving islanders.

Antigua means old or ancient in Spanish, and that was the name bestowed upon the island by Christopher Columbus in 1493. He had in mind an icon in Seville Cathedral: Santa Maria de la Antigua (Saint Mary the Ancient.)

We will return to Antigua on February 17, and I invite you read that blog for more details.

Antigua English Harbor2 Antigua English Harbor1

English Harbor from the viewpoint at Shirley Heights, above. And part of Nelson’s Dockyard.

Antigua is the largest of the Leeward Islands, about 108 square miles or 281 square kilometers, and it has some of the most interesting terrain amongst Caribbean islands: hills and valleys and deep bays.

It is the more substantial of a two-island nation, and Saint Johns is the capital of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda.

The first permanent European settlement was in 1632. The colonists were led by Sir Christopher Codrington, an Englishman from Bristol in South Gloucestershire.

Codrington began development of a major sugar plantation, an operation continued by his son and grandson. The sugar crop was so successful that other planters switched from tobacco to sugar cane.

Growing, harvesting, and processing the cane was very labor intensive. At first, colonists tried to use natives as forced labor. Unfortunately, most succumbed to imported European diseases or malnutrition.

And so began the wholesale importation of African slaves, tens of thousands of them. The Africans had the misfortune of adapting well to the new environment.

By the mid-18th century the island had more than 150 windmills to run the machinery to process the cane. Today almost 100 of the stone towers are still standing, many converted to use as houses, restaurants, and shops.

Their picturesque remains only hint at the sad story of tens of thousands of slaves who once worked the fields and the processing mills.

And sadly, many hundreds or thousands of their descendants were among those who lost much of their life savings in an elaborate financial scheme orchestrated by American Robert Allen Stanford, who was arrested in 2009 and is currently a guest of the U.S. federal government at a resort in Florida from which he is unable to check out.

Text and images copyright 2016 by Corey Sandler. All rights reserved. If you would like to purchase a high-resolution image, please contact me.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE AN AUTOGRAPHED COPY OF ONE OF MY BOOKS, PLEASE CONTACT ME.

SEE THE “How to Order a Photo or Autographed Book” TAB ON THIS PAGE FOR INSTRUCTIONS

25 February 2015
 St. John’s, Antigua: Blowing in the Wind

By Corey Sandler, Destination Consultant Silversea Cruises

Antigua is a place of great beauty and a bit of history, including the one-time presence of a young and mostly intact Horatio Nelson as commander of the Dockyards in what is now English Harbour.

Nelson did not much like Antigua, and spent most of his time here on board his own ship. But today English Harbour and the Nelson Dockyard are filled with spectacular yachts and handsome sailing vessels.

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Silver Cloud at the dock in St. John’s.

There’s a lot to see on this island, and we have been all around it by land many times. On this visit, though, we took to the sea.

We went out for the day with four other passengers on Cat Tales II, a handsome 40-foot catamaran. The wind was blowing pretty steadily at about 20 miles per hour, and soon after we left the port of Road Town we were flying along at 8 or 9 knots.

Cat Tales II is the pride and joy of James and Sherrill, who moved to Antigua from the south of England, which seems like a fine decision.

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Cat Tales II arrives to pick us up.

We headed out into the Atlantic into the wind; the handsome catamaran skims across the waves. Its two hulls descend only three feet into the water, and balance each other out so that the sailboat does not “heel” or lean during maneuvers. Not a drop of champagne was spilled.

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Dog Head Rock, outside the harbor of St. John’s. The head is at the left side of the photo.

We set anchor in Deep Bay, a secluded beach. While some of us swam laps around the boat, James and Sherrill put half a dozen local spiny lobsters on the barbecue for their guests.

On the way back, we made a visit to the wreck of the Andes.

The three-masted steel sailing barque was built in England in 1874. In June 1905, she departed Trinidad with a cargo of pitch (tar) headed for Chile. They sailed northeast toward Antigua to catch the tradewinds that would have carried them down to Cape Horn at the bottom of South America.

But near Antigua, smoke began to rise from the barrels of tar. The captain turned toward shore, but did not make it to St. John’s. Her captain the ship at Deep Bay.

We sailed overhead the wreck, a ghostly shadow on the sea bottom, 30 feet below the surface but visible in the beautifully clear Caribbean waters.

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All photos by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved. If you would like to purchase a high-resolution image, please contact me.