October 2025: We Came Back. Circling the British Isles (Part One)

By Corey Sandler

Old King George had his ups and downs. Defeating France in the Seven Years War in Europe and the Canadian Provinces, losing to the upstart American Colonies, and descending into mental illness.

He reappeared on the world stage, literally, with his cameo appearances in Lin-Manuel Miranda’s “Hamilton” where he promised George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, and the other revolutionaries: “You’ll be back.”

With the Americans struggling against overwhelming British forces, they gained important support from enemies of their enemy.

France, mostly in retaliation for the Seven Years War and the associated French and Indian War in Canada and Northern New York, sent ships and troops. Much of the French land forces were led by the Marquis de Lafayette and the naval forces by Comte de Rochambeau. The French also provided important diversionary fighting in the Caribbean.

Baron von Steuben led Polish forces. Spain aided the effort with battles in Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, and in the Southern American colonies and in the Caribbean.

Turning point battles included Newport in what is now Rhode Island, New York, and then the eventual great march of combined American and French infantry that ended the war in Yorktown.

Through it all, George III tried to pretend all was peaches and cream. Back to Miranda and “Hamilton.”

“You’ll be back soon,
“You’ll see.

“Oceans rise, empires fall.
“We have seen each other through it all.
“And when push comes to shove,
“I will send a fully armed battalion to remind you of my love.”

At the end of the August as we began to pack our bags for a month-long contract circling the British Isles, we attended a performance of Gilbert & Sullivan’s classic “The Pirates of Penzance” in Boston.

G&S were rock stars of their time, and their clever and fun light operas were huge hits in Victorian England, most of the British Empire, and even in the former American colonies.

“Penzance” made its debut not in Britain but in New York, in 1879, a bit more than a century after the American Declaration of Independence. (It opened in New York in an attempt to prevent literary pirates from mounting unauthorized productions in America.)

Which brings us to another bit of musical madness, Sullivan’s inspired lyrics in “Penzance” for When a Felon’s Not Engaged in His Employment. Here’s a snippet:

“When a felon’s not engaged in his employment
“Or maturing his felonious little plans,
“His capacity for innocent enjoyment
“Is just as great as any honest man’s.

“Our feelings we with difficulty smother
“When constabulary duty’s to be done.
“Ah, take one consideration with another,
“A policeman’s lot is not a happy one.”

And so we headed from Boston, where the American Revolution was hatched, and endured a pair of flights to Viking Cruises’s new Vela in Bergen, Norway.

A day later we were in the North Sea, headed west for near-complete circumnavigation of the British Isles ending in Greenwich, part of the port of London. Two weeks later we would make the same trip, in the opposite direction, back to Norway.

Here’s some of what we saw.

Bergen, Norway: City of the Seven Mountains

When you exit the terminal at Bergen Airport in Flesland you are greeted by a large sign on the hillside, an art installation of questionable message.

It reads in 18-foot-high yellow letters: BERGEN?

Every time we visit I wonder if perhaps the pilot was uncertain about where the plane had touched down.

Beautiful Bergen is surrounded by hills and mountains. One of its nicknames is the City of the Seven Mountains, which requires you to select which seven to include.

An unofficial nickname, not as favored by the tourist bureau, is “Bring Your Umbrella.” It rains something like 270 out of 365 days of the year, sometimes a light drizzle and sometimes downpours of biblical proportions.

We spent two days in Bergen on arrival, and two days there as we prepared to return home four weeks later. It rained for parts of three of those days, which seems to meet the expectations of meteorologists.

Bergen?

Sunny day. In Bergen? Transfixed by a bright yellow object in the sky, I went for a walk into the old fishing and shipbuilding district of Bergen, well off the tourist route. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Fantoft Stave Church in Fana near Bergen. The original church was built about 1150 in the Sognefjord; it was rebuilt in 1879. Not long afterward the small church was threatened with demolition but was saved by a wealthy Norwegian businessman who paid for its careful deconstruction and relocation to Bergen in 1883. It stood there until 1992 until it was destroyed by arson blamed on a member of a “Black Metal” band. Rebuilt once again, today it stands within a black metal fence. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.

Lerwick, Scotland in the Shetland Islands

Our first port of call on the first cruise (and our penultimate on the second) was Lerwick in the Shetland Islands.

This is the northernmost piece of the United Kingdom, actually closer to Norway than it is to London. That made it very attractive to the Vikings who were amongst the first tourists to visit. And it also made it an important side story of the Second World War: it was mostly from Shetland that dozens of small boats made hundreds of stealthy crossings of the North Sea to bring in saboteurs and spies, and rescue Norwegians at peril from Nazi occupiers.

Lerwick on the main island of Shetland. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Fort Charlotte in Lerwick. More or less five-sided with most of its fortifications intended to protect against assault from the sea, the first version of the fort was built about 1652 during the First Anglo-Dutch War. It was reconstructed in 1665 for the second round of the war, successfully holding off the Dutch. It was burned by the Dutch in round three of the war. Rebuilt in 1781 and named after Queen Charlotte, wife of mad King George III, it never saw further combat. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
The Broch of Mousa on the small island of Mousa in Shetland dates from about 300 BCE and is among the best-preserved Iron Age round towers in all of Europe. No one knows its purpose: perhaps as a military or communication station, or for storage. It is mentioned in ancient Norse sagas of nearly a thousand years ago, some recounting Viking voyages from Norway to Iceland. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Inside Mousa Broch. The tower remains in very good condition and visitors can still climb a set of very narrow and steep stairs to the top. A modern net aims to keep out avian invaders. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.

Aberdeen, Scotland

The Granite City is less-visited than Edinburgh and Glasgow, but it has both a handsome downtown and a surprisingly green and tranquil countryside in surrounding Aberdeenshire.

Pitmedden Garden, first built about 1675, is Scotland’s largest surviving parterre. A parterre is a formal garden on a level surface, usually incorporating intricate mazes and other serpentine or symmetrical flourishes. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Tight Quarters for Pitmedden Garden’s farmer. A small stone structure in a corner of the garden is so carefully provisioned it appears as if the family that once squeezed within have just stepped away a moment ago, Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.

Edinburgh, Scotland: Auld Reekie

Edinburgh Castle, poised atop Castle Rock, a place that has been inhabited by humans since at least the Iron Age. The first version of the castle was erected in the 11th century and it was a royal residence until 1633. For me, the very best view of the castle is from the rooftop of the National Museum of Scotland; the museum is also one of my favorite places to visit. Scotland’s nicknames include Auld Reekie, meaning Old Smoky, a reference to coal fires and the industrial revolution which turned many old sandstone structures black. It is also known as The Athens of the North, a nod to the many classical design structures and monuments. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Asian Treasure in Edinburgh. One of the many amazing items on display at the National Museum of Scotland is an effigy of Shō Kannon, the primary incarnation of the compassionate Buddhist deity Kannon, rescuer of suffering souls. The work dates from about 1787 Japan. The right hand is upheld in a sign of protection. A lotus blossom in the left hand records the name of the artist and the donors who paid for the art; some things never change. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Stirling Castle near Edinburgh, Scotland. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.
Stirling Castle is one of the largest and most historically important castles of Scotland, dating mostly from the 15th and 16th centuries. Several Scottish Kings and Queens were crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.

Kirkwall, Scotland in the Orkney Islands

The Orkney Islands stand just off the northern coast of Scotland. The principal town of Kirkwall includes some impressive ancient structures including the spectacular Saint Magnus Cathedral.

Saint Magnus Cathedral construction began about 1137 and continued for 300 years. Originally Roman Catholic, it is Scotland’s oldest cathedral in Scotland and the most northerly cathedral in the United Kingdom. Its design mixes Romanesque design with Gothic additions. The church was built when the islands were ruled by the Norse Earls of Orkney as a semi-autonomous part of the Kingdom of Norway. Beneath the cathedral is a dungeon; people accused of witchcraft in Orkney from 1594 to 1708 were usually incarcerated there, with trials held in the church. On the left side of the nave is the rescued ship’s bell of the Royal Oak, a Royal Navy battleship that saw service in the First World War; in 1939 in the early days of the Second World War, Royal Oak was among many ships anchored in the semi-protected waters of Scapa Flow in Orkney. A German U-boat slipped through defenses and torpedoed the vessel, killing 835 of the 1,234 men aboard. Photo by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved.

Coming Attractions: Belfast, Liverpool, Portland, Weymouth, Portsmouth, and Greenwich

I hope you’ll return here next month for more pictures and stories from the tour of the British Isles.

King George III will be back.

All text and photos are by Corey Sandler, all rights reserved. Copyright 2025. If you want to obtain a copy of one of my photographs for personal or commercial use, please contact me using the link on this page. Or, click here to contact me.

If you’d like to order a copy of my book, “Henry Hudson Dreams and Obsession” you can obtain a Kindle or PDF version by clicking here: HENRY HUDSON DREAMS AND OBSESSION

Or if you would prefer to purchase a printed book in hardcover or paperback (personally autographed if you’d like) please send me an email for details. Click here to contact me.